ACONCAGUA – 6.962 M
The False Polish Route
Code
E03
Region
Central Andes, Argentina
Duration
19 Days
Prices
Still not available
Next trip
11.12.2021
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General
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Dates
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Prices
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Services
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Itinerary
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Personal equipment
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Security
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Gallery
Introduction
Aconcagua, the highest mountain in America! Nobody gets so high out of Asia. Numerous stories and legends surround this mountain, and make it a mystic destination for mountaineers all around the world. It is among the 7 summits, what makes it a referent for those who intend to complete the ascent to the highest summits in each continent. Our love for Aconcagua and the long years of experience that we have concerning this mountain should guarantee a safe and successful expedition. This program plans to do the ascent by using the legendary “False Polish Route”, and to descent using the “Normal Route”. This variant to cross the mountain does not have great climbing difficulties, and it is considered the most attractive route in many ways. It includes a circuit around the entire massif that allows an incomparable and unique mountain experience. We will enter the wild Vacas Valley to get to the Base Camp on the Eastern side of Aconcagua, Plaza Argentina. We will climb the route to the highest top in the Andes along the Northern flank of the mountain before descending to the Base Camp on the Eastern side, Plaza de Mulas. From here we will go back to the South following the long Horcones Valley, and we will end this beautiful circuit in Puente de Inca. SPONDYLUS invites you to join this impressive expedition to the “Stone Sentinel” off the beaten track.
Highlights
- Good South American life style in the wine growing city of Mendoza.
- Observation of local fauna at the Aconcagua Provincial Park.
- Approach along the Vacas Valley passing by the Pampa de Leñas and Casa de Piedra Camps.
- Several nights at the legendary Plaza Argentina Base Camp. Expedition groups from all over the world meet here.
- The best acclimatization possible by doing wonderful trekkings before the ascent, and due to a good number of security and resting days.
- Circuit around the entire massif Aconcagua descending to the Plaza de Mulas Base Camp along the “Normal Route”
Level of difficulty
Header | For everybody | Medium | Difficult | For experts |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Physical Level | Cell | Cell | Cell | |
Technical level | Cell | Cell | Cell |
Season
Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Cell | Cell | Cell | Cell | Cell | Cell |
We offer this expedition on FIXED DATES, but also as PRIVATE EXPEDITIONS.
Fixed dates - Season 2021/2022
The participants can make reservations freely for fixed date expeditions. SPONDYLUS will define the starting /ending dates of each expedition.
Minimum number of participants: 5 persons
Maximum number of participants: 12 persons
If there are less than 5 participants in the group, there will be a small group extra charge.
Code | Start | End | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
E03FD1 | 11.12.21 | 29.12.21 | Space available |
E03FD2 | 10.01.22 | 28.01.22 | Space available |
Private Expeditions
The dates for private expeditions are requested by the participants. In general it is not possible to add external persons to the group. If required, the itinerary can be adapted to the group´s needs and priorities.
Prices - still not available
The price depends on the number of participants, and they are based on a double room/tent.
5-7 participants | ... USD/Person |
8-9 participants | ... USD/Person |
10-12 participants | ... USD/Person |
Additional expenses
Single Room / Tent Supplement: * ... USD
* The extra charge for single room & tent will be done at the moment of making a reservation for the single room. If there is no other person found for sharing a room at the moment of making the reservation of a double room, we will charge half of the extra charge.
Small Group Surcharge:If the size of the group is smaller than the minimum number of participants (4 persons), a small group fee will be charged. All this depends on the final number of participants.
Climbing Permit: The prices of the climbing permits vary depending on the season, and are only published by the administration of the Park just a short time before the climbing season starts. The cost of the permit is NOT included in the Price of the expedition. The following prices are referential (permit costs for the season 2019/2020):
- High season: 15th Dec – 31st Jan: USD 950
- Low season: 1st Nov – 14th Dec & 1st Feb – 15th March: USD 730
The climbing permit has to be personally withdrawn in Mendoza, and has to be paid cash in USD.
Included services
- All the TRANSFERS: Arrival and departure from the airport, Mendoza – Penitentes - Aconcagua Park – Penitentes - Mendoza.
- All the TRANSFERS: Arrival and departure from the airport, Mendoza – Penitentes - Aconcagua Park – Penitentes - Mendoza
- 2 HOTEL NIGHTS IN MENDOZA in 4 * Hotel NH, breakfast included (based on a double room)
- 2 HOTEL NIGHTS IN PENITENTES Hotel Ayelén, breakfast included (based on a double room)
- Assistance for getting the climbing permit
- MULES in Aconcagua for the transportation of personal equipment (22 kg per person) to the camps Pampa de Leñas, Casa de Piedra, Plaza Argentine and at the end of the expedition from Plaza de Mulas to the exit of the park.
- CAMPS PAMPA DE LEÑAS & CASA DE PIEDRA: 1 night full board each
- BASE CAMP PLAZA ARGENTINA: 4 nights full board included (including leisure and security days)
- BASE CAMP PLAZA DE MULAS: 3 nights full board included (including leisure and security days)
- MEALS according to the trip program. All the food and drinks offered during the expedition in the mountains are included. Potable water, juice, tea, coffee, etc. are permanently available at the camps (no alcohol). Meals are included at the Base Camps of Plaza Argentina & Plaza de Mulas: breakfast, lunch and dinner. Good quality wine is served with dinner (1 bottle for 4 people).
- FACILITIES AND SUPPLIES AT PLAZA ARGENTINA AND DE MULAS BASE CAMP: spacious dinning tents with thermal insulation and wooden floor; Designated charging areas for cameras, mobile phones, tablets, etc. (220V / 50Hz); Free Wifi, Comfortable chairs and tables; Comfortable big tent for reading, resting, etc.; heated tent for after dinner. A table with hot and cold drinks is permanently available for a good liquid intake.
- COMMUNICATION: At the Base Camp there are radios, satellite phones and internet.
SHOWERS: Our Base Camp has its own exclusive shower tent with 2 hot water showers, wooden floor and heating. The use of them is free of charge for our clients. - MATTRESSES AT BASE CAMP: Very comfortable high density mattresses are provided.
- MOUNTAIN TENTS: High quality wide expedition tents for 2 people are provided.
- At high camps, the meals are prepared by our mountain guides, and hot water is also provided by them for our clients.
- HIGH ALTITUDE EQUIPMENT: The high camps are equipped with big robust tents where we serve the meals. We also provide toilet tents.
- Daily accurate weather forecast
- CREDITED GUIDES: All our guides have their climbing licence and a lot of experience. All of them are bilingual guides (Spanish, English, German, French, Italian / subject to availability). 1 mountain guide is responsible for 4 participants.
- PORTERS for tents and other high camping equipment. These porters are not responsible for the personal equipment of the expedition participants. (The number of porters is according to the size of the group).
- CÓLERA CAMP: The camp is equipped with oxygen to be able to assist any emergency occurring the day that we climb to the summit.
Not included
- Arrival and departure / Mendoza
- Climbing permit (see the information about the PRICES)
- Lunches and dinners in Mendoza
- Personal porters for the high camps
- The use of the satellite phone for personal purposes (except for emergencies)
- Possible additional costs like helicopters, transfers, touristic guides, hotels, mules, etc. in the case of an anticipated end of the expedition
- Drinks at restaurants and hotels
- If the expedition is cancelled in advance due to causes of force majeure (for example earthquake) the cost of the trip will not be refunded
- Additional hotel nights in Mendoza or Uspallata that are not included in the trip program
- Tips
- Personal accident and health international insurance
- Personal equipment (look at the recommended list of equipment)
- Any other service not included in the program
Itinerary
DAY 1: ARRIVAL TO MENDOZA
Welcome to Mendoza! The capital of the most important wine growing region of Argentina. Right after getting the luggage, we will be driven to our hotel in the centre of the city. The expedition group and the guide will have dinner in a typical Argentinian steak restaurant. All doubts regarding the expedition to the “Roof of America” will be cleared out here.
Accommodation: Hotel 4*
Meals: -
DAY 2: MENDOZA – PENITENTES (2.700 M)
After breakfast, we will walk with our guides to the head office of the Aconcagua Provincial Park to pay for our climbing permits. Once we finish with this procedure, we head West towards the Andes Range, whose snowed peaks can already be seen on the horizon. We settle into our accommodation in the small Penitentes Ski Station, where we will have the chance to go for a walk around the area in the afternoon. Tonight, we will pack the equipment that will be carried by the mules. Part of our personal equipment will go with us to Confluencia Camp, and the other will go directly to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 3: PENITENTES – PAMPA DE LEÑAS (2.870 M)
Our expedition to the “Roof of America” starts now! After having breakfast at the hotel, we will be driven to Punta de Vacas. The park rangers will check the climbing permits at the entrance. From here, we will start our trekking to the first camp (approx. 5 hours) in an area with no technical difficulties. We will always head to the North along the Vacas River to get to Pampa de Leñas in the afternoon. We set our camp here, and we spend the first night of our expedition under one of the clearest star studded night skies on Earth. The mules will carry all the equipment.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 4: PAMPA DE LEÑAS (2.870 M) – CASA DE PIEDRAS (3.250 M)
We continue with our approach walk. After having a good breakfast, we keep walking along the course of the Vacas River. After crossing the river over a bridge the valley opens, and the view of the surrounding mountains of the central Andes gradually gets more and more spectacular. Late in the afternoon we see for the first time our dream destination, Aconcagua. This view will only be seen a short time before our arrival to Casa de Piedras Camp. Here the Vacas Valley joins Los Relinchos Valley. The path which we will walk the following day is steeper and more tiring, and will take us up the Relichos Valley finishing at the Plaza Argentina Base Camp. The mules will carry all the equipment.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 5: ASA DE PIEDRAS (3.250 M) – PLAZA ARGENTINA (4.200 M)
Our activities today will start earlier than the day before. It is very important to cross the Vacas River early in the morning before it is flooded by the thaws. After crossing the river, we will keep walking along the valley for about 5-6 hours to get to the legendary Plaza Argentina Base Camp. The terrain today is a little bit more difficult than the previous days, but the impressive landscape pays generously for our efforts. On our arrival, we will be warmly welcomed by the camp team that will be already waiting for us. The following days they will make our stay as pleasant as possible.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 6: PLAZA ARGENTINA (4.200 M) / LEISURE DAY
We will enjoy a relaxing day at the Base Camp. Expedition groups from all over the world meet here. The surrounding mountains are ideal for going on short walks. After consulting with the SPONDYLUS expedition leader, it is possible to climb Cerro Colorado (4.566 m) taking approx. 3-4 hours. Cerro Colorado is the Base Camp’s mountain with its typical gravel slopes that offers no real technical difficulty. During our stay, we will be offered a nice breakfast and dinner, as well as a light lunch on the leisure days. We will also have water, tea and cold drinks which are available all the time in the group’s tent to guarantee an adequate hydration.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 7: PLAZA ARGENTINA (4.200 M) – HIGH CAMP 1 (4.950 M) – PLAZA ARGENTINA (4.200 M)
Today we will carry the equipment from Plaza Argentina to Camp 1 located at almost 5.000 meters. After this, we will return to the Base Camp to spend the night. This procedure will help us to distribute the load (personal equipment, required food, cookers, gasoline, etc.) in two porting days. However, today’s excursion is extremely helpful in terms of acclimatization. This is another very important step to a gradual preparation of our bodies for the high altitude of the following days.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 8: PLAZA ARGENTINA (4.200 M) / LEISURE DAY
After our efforts of the previous day, we have another leisure day. This gives us time to get used to the idea that the ascent to the summit which will take several days, starts the next day. The tension gradually increases, but thanks to our excellent preparation phase, the whole group should be acclimatizing well and this helps us feel confident to achieve our goal.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 9: PLAZA ARGENTINA (4.200 M) – HIGH CAMP 1 (4.950 M)
After enjoying a nice breakfast in the comfort of Base Camp, we say good bye to the camp team. There is no way back now. Our objective is the ascent to the summit. The area where we will walk today is not new to us, because we walked along it during the porting we did the previous days. At an altitude of almost 5.000 meters, we will enjoy the afternoon hours at the camp, and we will get ready to spend the night here.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 10: HIGH CAMP 1 – HIGH CAMP 2 / GUANACOS (5.520 M) – HIGH CAMP 1 (4.950 M)
This is another porting day in our itinerary. We will have to climb approx. 500 metres to Guanacos Camp to carry and store our equipment. In the afternoon, we will go back to Camp 1 where we spend another night.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 11: HIGH CAMP 1 (4.950 M) – HIGH CAMP 2 / GUANACOS (5.520 M)
We ascend to Camp 2 that goes by the name of Guanacos. On arrival our porters will be waiting for us with our tents up and ready to be used. The best tactic in the present circumstances is to rest and drink a lot of liquid. The tension increases. We keep a close eye on the weather to develop the best possible strategy for the crucial days coming ahead and our ascent to the summit.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 12: GUANACOS (5.520 M) – HIGH CAMP 3 / CÓLERA (6.000 M)
The ascent goes on! To shorten the distance to the summit and to be able to increase our possibilities of a successful ascent, we will set a third high camp in "Cólera". Approx. 3-4 hours after departing from Guanacos, we will reach our objective at an altitude of almost 6.000 metres. Today’s moto is "Save energy". Tonight, we will have an earlier dinner, and make use of the hours to recover as much as possible before we start the final ascent to the summit.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 13: CÓLERA – SUMMIT (6.962 M) – CÓLERA (6.000 M)
SUMMIT DAY! Around 4:00 a.m., we leave our tents, remember it will be dark. A slow but constant pace is the key for success. Due to the extreme cold in the hours before the sunrise, it is not possible to take long rests. Depending on the conditions and the weather, the ascent to the summit takes between 6 to 8 hours. Starting at approx. 6.300 m, the use of crampons is required. The only real technical difficulty at approx. 6.500 m, is the steep and most of the time, frozen scree that gets us right below the summit. At the highest point of the Americas, our effort is rewarded by a unique landscape. The weather as well as the physical conditions of the expedition group, are the main factors that determine the time that we spend at the summit. After this, we need between 3-4 hours on the same route to get back to the High Camp.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 14: CÓLERA – PLAZA DE MULAS (4.300 M)
Descent (approx. 4 hours) to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. Here we will have the opportunity to make a toast for the success of reaching the summit. The tension of the previous days goes away, and the joy and relief of what we have achieved and lived determines our emotions. All the expedition team is comforted by the experiences that we lived altogether. We did it! The highest point in the Western world, the legendary Aconcagua!
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 15 & 16: PLAZA DE MULAS (4.300 M) / SECURITY DAYS
We have these extra days to guarantee the largest number of opportunities to reach the summit. The proposed itinerary is subject to changes due to climatic problems or causes of force majeure that can put the safety of the group at risk.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 17: PLAZA DE MULAS – PENITENTES (2.700 M)
We leave our Base Camp, and walk all the way back to the entrance of the Provincial Park. The vehicle that will take us back to our hotel in Penitentes will be there already waiting for us. After all our efforts of the days before, a hot shower at the hotel will be a great delight. Tonight we will probably toast once again together the success of reaching the summit. The mules will carry all the equipment.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 18: ENITENTES – MENDOZA
After breakfast, we will pack our expedition bags and drive back to Mendoza. On the way there, we will have lunch at the beautiful town of Uspallata in one of the typical local posadas. On our last expedition night, we will have a wonderful dinner in a local restaurant and talk about our adventures. It is time to say good bye to the local SPONDYLUS expedition team. After dinner, a good sleep, and the next morning we will start our return journey back home.
Accommodation: Hotel 4*
Meals: Breakfast
DAY 19: MENDOZA / (OUT)
Drive to the airport. END OF SERVICES
Accommodation: -
Meals: Breakfast
Recommended equipment
Technical clothing
Expedition down jacket, Breathable windbreaker (Goretex, Windstopper or similar), Polartec or fleece jacket, Medium weight fleece pullover, Thermal underware (it is very important it is breathable, no cotton, or similar), Breathable windbreaker mountain trousers (Goretex or similar), Trekking trousers, Thermal expedition socks
Head & Hands
Sun hat, Warm hat with ear protection, Ski mask (balaclava) or mask, First layer thin gloves, Trekking gloves (Goretex, Windstopper or similar), Goose down or synthetic expedition mittens
Sleeping gear
Goose down or synthetic expedition sleeping bag (comfort zone -20ºC) with compression bag, Expedition mattress (Therm-a-Rest type or similar)
Shoes
Trekking boots, High mountain expedition boots with inner boot and adequate for using with crampons, Light trainers and sandals or similar to wear at camp, Water proof hiking gaiters
Technical Equipment
Crampons, Telescopic trekking poles, Light ice axe
Additional Equipment
Sun glasses with 100% UV protection, Skiing goggles, Wide mouth water bottle, Thermos, Sun block factor 30+, Lip sun protector factor 30+, Pocket knife, Watch with alarm, Personal first aid kit, Expedition Duffel Bag, Head lamp with batteries & extra batteries, Back pack 30L +, Back pack 70L +, Towel
Security
To guarantee maximum security, all along the expedition we always take with us oxygen, satellite phone, VHF radios and medicine for emergencies.
Besides this, we strongly recommend every participant to hire a Foreign Health insurance and an Accident insurance for South America.
We know that reaching the top of a mountain is the dream of every mountaineer. This is the reason why we make our best effort to make a successful ascent possible. Due to our wide experience on climbing high mountains, we normally succeed. However, it is not possible for us to guarantee reaching the summit of any mountain, and we will never put our health at risk trying to achieve the goal. The security of our clients, our mountain guides and the whole expedition team is our highest priority!
