MARMOLEJO - 6.108 M
The southermost 6.000er
Code
E05
Region
Central Andes, Chile
Duration
10 Days
Prices
From 1.350 USD
Next trip
31.01.2021
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General
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Dates
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Prices
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Services
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Itinerary
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Personal equipment
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Security
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Gallery
Introduction
The majestic Mount Marmolejo is the guardian of the beautiful Maipo Valley. Not far from Santiago, the capital of Chile lies this dream destination for mountaineers from all over the world. It is the southernmost summit above 6.000 metres on Earth. Even though it is not technically difficult, climbing this giant demands respect from the climbers. Several high camps require porting of our equipment and also a good strategy, the latter is the key to face this challenge in a safe and successful way. This ascent includes all the aspects required for a great expedition, and this is a real reference for those who wish to get experience in the high altitude mountaineering. The incomparable mountain landscape in the heart of the Chilean Central Andes, generously rewards every mountain lover who starts to progress in his objectives.
Highlights
- Scenic beauty and traditional lifestyle in the Maipo Valley.
- Acclimatization hike in the El Morado Natural Reserve.
- Fantastic high mountain landscape in the Central Andes.
- Approach the mountain along the beautiful La Engorda Valley.
- Base Camp + 2 high camps located in outstanding places.
- Optimal acclimatization and maximum security thanks to the extra safety and rest days.
- Ascent to the summit of Marmolejo (6.108 m).
- Marmolejo is the southernmost 6.000 m. mountain on the planet.
Level of difficulty
Header | For everybody | Medium | Difficult | For experts |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Physical Level | Cell | Cell | Cell | |
Technical level | Cell | Cell | Cell |
Season
Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Cell | Cell | Cell | Cell | Cell | Cell | Cell |
We offer this expedition on FIXED DATES, but also as PRIVATE EXPEDITIONS.
Fixed dates - Season 2021/2022
The participants can make reservations freely for fixed date expeditions. SPONDYLUS will define the starting / ending dates of each expedition.
Minimum number of participants: 5 persons
Maximum number of participants: 12 persons
If there are less than 5 participants in the group, there will be a small group extra charge.
Code | Start | End | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
E05FD1 | 31.01.21 | 09.02.21 | Space available |
E05FD2 | 30.01.22 | 08.02.22 | Space available |
Private Expeditions
The dates for private expeditions are requested by the participants. In general it is not possible to add external persons to the group. If required, the itinerary can be adapted to the group´s needs and priorities.
Prices
The price depends on the number of participants, and they are based on a double room/tent.
5-7 participants | 1.770 USD/Person |
8-10 participants | 1.560 USD/Person |
11-12 participants | 1.330 USD/Person |
Additional expenses
Single Room / Tent Supplement: * 120 USD
* The extra charge for single room & tent will be done at the moment of making a reservation for the single room. If there is no other person found for sharing a room at the moment of making the reservation of a double room, we will charge half of the extra charge.
Small Group Surcharge:If the size of the group is smaller than the minimum number of participants (5 persons), a small group fee will be charged. All this depends on the final number of participants.
Included services
- Accommodation in the traditional mountain refuge “Refugio Alemán” in the Maipo Valley on DAY 1
- Fully equipped base camp (expedition tents, kitchen tent, dining tent, etc ...). The dining tent is equipped with tables and chairs. For sleeping, quality triple expedition tents are used for two people, and double tents are used for a single person.
- Catering is offered as mentioned in the itinerary. Food is carefully selected and prepared for all meals. The special conditions and the energy requirements for a high altitude expedition are always taken into consideration at the moment of preparing the meals. Drinking water and hot drinks are available at the camp all the time.
- Private transportation in all vehicle transfers according to itinerary
- Experienced, bilingual mountain guides (Spanish, English, German, French, Italian, Portuguese, according to availability). The number of guides on every expedition is provided according to the number of participants: 1 mountain guide or an assistant / 3 participants.
- Mules for transportation of private and common equipment according to itinerary (Days 2 and 10 of the expedition program)
- Security and emergency equipment: radios, satellite phones, oxygen, first aid kit
- Acquisition of all necessary permits
- All entrances, park fees, etc. according to the itinerary
Not included
- Arrival & Departure / Santiago
- Services in Santiago. We will be very pleased to organize for you: shuttles, accommodation, city tours, etc. Please contact us if required.
- Eventual extra permit fees (at the moment, no extra permit fees are charged for climbing the mountains included in this program. If this situation changes, the participants will be informed and will have to cover the fee).
- Drinks at restaurants and refuge
- Porters
- Tips
- Personal international health and accident insurance
- Personal equipment (look at the recommended list of equipment)
- Any other service not included in the program
Itinerary
DAY 1: SANTIAGO – EL MORADO NATURAL RESERVE - LO VALDES / REFUGIO ALEMÁN (1.950 M)
We will leave the capital and drive towards the Southeast, to the beautiful Maipo Valley, the most important outdoor recreational area of Santiago, and a real playground for mountain lovers. The valley takes us straight to the heart of the Central Andes. Passing by San José de Maipo, the main town in the valley, after approximately 3 hours we arrive to the village, Baños Morales, a place well known for its thermal baths. Here we will visit the Natural Reserve El Morado, where not only the flora and fauna are of great interest, but also the Morales Lagoon, the San Francisco Glacier and Mount El Morado which dominates the landscape of the valley. We will do a trekking of 5-6 hours that will prepare us for our expedition. We spend the night in Refugio Alemán, a mountain accommodation. This historical building with great tradition and an almost legendary reputation was built in 1932 by the German Andean Association, and it still remains in excellent condition.
Accommodation: Mountain Refuge “Refugio Alemán”
Meals: Lunch, Dinner
DAY 2: LO VALDES / REFUGIO ALEMÁN – MARMOLEJO BASE CAMP (3.240 M)
After having an early breakfast, we will leave our cozy accommodation and get to the starting point for approaching the mountain. Here, very near to the San José Volcano and right at the beginning of the beautiful valley La Engorda, the mules will be waiting for us to carry our load. After giving the mule drivers the camping equipment, the food, and part of our personal equipment, we will start our trekking of approximately 6 hours to get to the Base Camp, we just carry a light back pack. Today, we will cross the river once or twice, this is the reason why it is advisable to have an early start to take advantage of the lower water levels in the morning. We walk into the valley La Engorda, having always the San José Volcano in front of us. At the end of the valley, we will set our Base Camp in the nearby area of the Marmolejo River.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 3: BASE CAMP (3.240 M) – HIGH CAMP 1 (4.325 M) – BASE CAMP (3.240 M)
Today will be more demanding, because we will climb more than 1.000 metres to High Camp 1, carrying big loaded back packs. Our objective today is to move food, kitchen implements and fuel and stock our next camp. We will need all these materials the following days to survive and be well supplied. It will take us from 4 to 5 hours to get to the camp. After taking a rest and hydrating our bodies, we will go back down to Base Camp. Tired but satisfied of what we have done, we will go to our tents after having a good dinner.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 4: BASE CAMP – HIGH CAMP 1 (4.325 M)
After breakfast we will once again check our equipment and start our climb up to our first high camp. Today we will not return to Base Camp, our ascent to the summit has begun, the mountain is calling! Resting and good hydration are the best strategies under these circumstances.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 5: HIGH CAMP 1 – HIGH CAMP 2 (4.980 M) – HIGH CAMP 1
Today we do a porting of equipment and food up to High Camp 2 (approx. 5-7 h). After a rest we start a descent back down to High Camp 1.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 6: HIGH CAMP 1 – HIGH CAMP 2 (4.980 M)
Our ascent continues, High Camp 2 is our objective for today. After packing our backpacks we return to the path. The large Marmolejo glacier and the fields of penitents make up our route towards our camp. We should arrive early in the afternoon. The views from here are simply impressive. The breathtaking mountain scenery and the star studded infinite night sky are images that will accompany us for the rest of our lives.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 7: HIGH CAMP 2 – SUMMIT (6.108 M) – HIGH CAMP 2
Today is our SUMMIT day! During the first part of our ascent, we will use our crampons. They will aid us in gaining altitude in a uniform and safe way. The summit looks near but it is not! It is an optical illusion. It is a long, hard and strenuous way. It will take approximately 8 hours to cover the 1.100 meters of vertical gain up to the summit. Once we have reached our goal, we are rewarded with amazing panoramic views of the central Chilean and Argentinian Andes. After a short rest, we have to draw on our remaining energy for our descent taking the utmost care in our safety. Back at Camp 2, protected inside our tents and warm inside our sleeping bags we will be able to go over our days adventures. Finally these images will accompany us to a well deserved sleep.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 8: HIGH CAMP 2 – BASE CAMP
Today we descend (approx. 4 hours) back down to our Base Camp. Here we will celebrate with a toast for our summit. Our tension from the previous days starts to recede, and joy and relief of what we have experimented and accomplished will determine our emotions.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 9: BASE CAMP
This day serves as a safe day and can be used in case we have bad weather or force majeure, always taking into account the safety of our group.
Accommodation: Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 10: BASE CAMP – BAÑOS MORALES – SANTIAGO
We will walk (approx.. 6 hours) back to our starting point. Here we will meet our transport that will take us back to Santiago. We will enjoy the comfort of our hotel and the first hot shower after 10 days. Here we will say our goodbyes to the expedition group. Mules will transport our equipment. END OF SERVICES
Accommodation: -
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Recommended equipment
Technical clothing
Expedition jacket, Breathable windbreaker (Goretex, Windstopper or similar), Polartec or fleece jacket, Medium weight polartec fleece, Thermal underware (it is very important it is breathable, no cotton, or similar), Breathable windbreaker mountain trousers (Goretex or similar), Trekking trousers, Thermal expedition socks.
Head & Hands
Sun hat, hat with ear protection, Ski mask (balaclava) or mask, First layer thin gloves, Trekking gloves (Goretex, Windstopper or similar), Goose down or synthetic expedition mittens
Sleeping gear
Goose down or synthetic expedition sleeping bag (comfort zone -20ºC) with compression bag, Expedition mattress (Therm-a-Rest type or similar).
Shoes
Mountain expedition boots (6000er) adequate for using with crampons, Light trainers and sandals or similar to wear at camp, Water proof hiking gaiters
Technical Equipment
Crampons, Telescopic trekking poles, Harness, 2 Climbing carabiners
Additional Equipment
Sun glasses with 100% UV protection, Skiing goggles, Wide mouth water bottle, Thermos, Sun block factor 30+, Lip sun protector factor 30+, Pocket knife, Watch with alarm, Personal first aid kit, Expedition Duffel Bag, Head lamp with batteries & extra batteries, Back pack 30L +, Back pack 70L +, Swimwear, Towel
Security
To guarantee maximum security, all along the expedition we always take with us oxygen, satellite phone, VHF radios and medicine for emergencies.
Besides this, we strongly recommend every participant to hire a Foreign Health insurance and an Accident insurance for South America.
We know that reaching the top of a mountain is the dream of every mountaineer. This is the reason why we make our best effort to make a successful ascent possible. Due to our wide experience on climbing high mountains, we normally succeed. However, it is not possible for us to guarantee reaching the summit of any mountain, and we will never put our health at risk trying to achieve the goal. The security of our clients, our mountain guides and the whole expedition team is our highest priority!
