Guide to acclimatization on Ojos del Salado (6,893 m)
Why high-altitude training camps make the difference
The high-altitude Atacama Desert and Tres Cruces National Park are rightly referred to as the "Roof of the Andes." Nowhere else on the planet is there such a high concentration of giants exceeding 6,000 meters above sea level. The undisputed king of this region is Ojos del Salado, which, at 6,893 meters, is the highest volcano on Earth. Although these "secret giants" often do not present technical difficulties, they place immense physical demands on any high-altitude mountaineer. Consequently, the absolute key to a safe and successful ascent lies in a scientifically sound and responsible acclimatization phase.
The SPONDYLUS Strategy:
Gradual altitude acclimatization instead of shortcuts
In practice, our approach differs fundamentally from that of other providers on the market: at SPONDYLUS Chile, we consistently employ a strategy involving multiple high camps. We spare no effort in the logistics of establishing these camps, allowing us to increase our groups' sleeping altitudes step-by-step and in a completely gradual manner. This is the key factor in achieving highly efficient altitude acclimatization.
What do others do?
Many competitors forgo setting up high camps simply for the sake of convenience. They attempt to manage both acclimatization and the final ascent exclusively from base camp. From the perspective of responsible high-altitude medicine that prioritizes health and safety, our strategy is demonstrably superior.
The acclimatization schedule in detail
The expedition itinerary is designed to allow your body to adapt—imperceptibly yet effectively—to the decreasing partial pressure of oxygen:
1. The initial phase in Valle Chico (2,600 m)
After arriving in Copiapó, we spend our first night at a sheltered campsite just above 2,600 meters, beneath the clearest starry sky on Earth.
2. Activation at Laguna Santa Rosa (3,760 m)
Here, we begin with gentle hikes around the Maricunga Salt Lake. To further boost altitude acclimatization, we climb a peak of the Siete Hermanos massif (approx. 4,800 m) the following day. We cover the vertical gain of around 1,000 meters at a deliberately slow, steady pace.
3. The first 6,000-meter peak at Laguna Verde (4,340 m)
After hiking around this enchanting lake, we use the ascent of San Francisco (6,030 m) as a perfect catalyst for acclimatization. We drive to the starting point at 4,700 meters and reach the summit in about 6 to 8 hours. A subsequent rest day ensures we are optimally prepared for our main objective.
4. The high-camp sequence on Ojos del Salado
We relocate our base camp to Camp Atacama at 5,280 meters. The next day, we ascend at a very leisurely pace to the Tejos refuge (5,825 m) to establish a gear cache before descending again. Only then do we move into the refuge for the final night before the summit push, conserving our energy for the strenuous climb through deep volcanic ash.
Adequate and responsible altitude acclimatization is the absolute key to any successful high-altitude expedition. While reaching the summit remains every mountaineer's dream, we never take incalculable risks to achieve it. Our proven strategy involving multiple high camps sets us apart from other providers; we gradually increase our groups' sleeping altitudes to ensure highly efficient acclimatization.
To ensure a safe mountain experience, excellent physical fitness is a prerequisite; meanwhile, we provide comprehensive on-site safety support using professional equipment—including medical oxygen, satellite phones, VHF radios, and emergency medical supplies. Ultimately, the safety of our guests, experienced mountain guides, and the entire team is our top priority, ensuring you enjoy an unforgettable adventure on the world's highest volcano.