Medical preparation for Ojos del Salado

What to pack in your travel medical kit

Climbing Ojos del Salado—the world’s highest volcano at 6,893 meters—is an unforgettable adventure in the heart of the Atacama Desert. Yet, successfully summiting a giant nearly 7,000 meters high demands not only willpower but also meticulous medical preparation. While we at Spondylus Chile ensure maximum safety behind the scenes, the task of optimally supporting your own body lies with you.

Highest safety standards: What SPONDYLUS handles for you

Safety is our top priority on our expeditions. You will never be left on your own at altitude. Our experienced team carries professional safety and emergency equipment on every trip. This includes:

• Medical oxygen for emergencies.
• A comprehensive emergency medical kit for acute altitude-related conditions.
• Satellite phones and VHF radios for constant communication.

In addition, we employ a scientifically grounded acclimatization strategy. Unlike many competitors who forgo high camps for the sake of simplicity and conduct the ascent exclusively from base camp, we deliberately establish multiple high camps. We gradually increase our groups' sleeping altitudes—the key to highly efficient and gentle altitude acclimatization.

Your personal responsibility: the personal travel medical kit

Despite our comprehensive safety plan, we recommend that every participant bring a personal travel medical kit. Everyone’s body reacts differently to extreme altitudes; at such heights, minor ailments like headaches or upset stomachs can jeopardize a successful summit attempt if not treated promptly.

Focus on the following core areas in your medical kit:

1. Painkillers (e.g., ibuprofen): Essential at the first signs of altitude-related headaches. Ibuprofen also has anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Gastrointestinal medications: The combination of unfamiliar food, dehydration, and high altitude can easily upset the stomach. Remedies for diarrhea and nausea, as well as electrolyte powder to replenish lost fluids, should be included in your gear.
3. Blister and wound care: Blister plasters (e.g., Compeed), medical tape, and disinfectant are invaluable during long treks in expedition boots.
4. Altitude-specific medications (e.g., acetazolamide/Diamox): These prescription drugs can aid acclimatization or help treat acute mountain sickness.

Important: You must consult a qualified sports medicine or high-altitude medicine specialist regarding intake and dosage beforehand!

Note on precautions:
Regardless of your travel medical kit, we strongly recommend that all guests take out specialized accident and health insurance for South America that covers rescues at extreme altitudes.

Your personal expedition medical kit (up to 7,000 m)

• Painkillers: Ibuprofen (400 mg / 600 mg) or Paracetamol.
• Altitude sickness: Acetazolamide (Diamox) – only after consulting a doctor.
• Gastrointestinal medication: Vomex (for nausea), Imodium (for diarrhea).
• Electrolytes: At least 10–15 sachets of electrolyte powder for rehydration.
• Blister plasters: Various sizes as well as wide sports tape.
• Sun protection: Lip balm and sunscreen with SPF 30+ or higher.
• Personal long-term medication: Sufficient supply for the entire duration of the expedition.
  
  

A carefully tailored personal medical kit is an essential component of your adventure on Ojos del Salado. Behind the scenes, the Spondylus team provides professional emergency medical support, medical oxygen, and satellite phones to ensure a comprehensive safety net. Combined with our responsible acclimatization strategy involving multiple high camps, we create the best possible conditions for realizing your dream of reaching the summit. However, from a medical standpoint, we never take incalculable risks; consequently, we cannot offer an absolute guarantee of reaching the summit. The safety of our guests, our mountain guides, and the entire team is our top priority at all times. With the right medical preparation, you will be well-equipped to safely conquer this magnificent challenge on the world's highest volcano.

Guide to acclimatization on Ojos del Salado (6,893 m)

Why high-altitude training camps make the difference

The high-altitude Atacama Desert and Tres Cruces National Park are rightly referred to as the "Roof of the Andes." Nowhere else in the longest mountain range on earth is there such a high concentration of giants exceeding 6,000 meters above sea level. The undisputed king of this region is Ojos del Salado, which, at 6,893 meters, is the highest volcano on Earth. Although these "secret giants" often do not present major technical difficulties, they place immense physical demands on any high-altitude mountaineer. Consequently, the absolute key to a safe and successful ascent lies in a scientifically sound and responsible acclimatization phase.

The SPONDYLUS Strategy: Gradual altitude acclimatization instead of shortcuts

In practice, our approach differs fundamentally from that of other providers on the market: at SPONDYLUS, we consistently employ a strategy involving multiple high camps. We spare no effort in the logistics of establishing these camps, allowing us to increase our groups' sleeping altitudes step-by-step and in a completely gradual manner. This is the key factor in achieving highly efficient altitude acclimatization.

What do others do?
Many competitors forgo setting up high camps simply for the sake of convenience. They attempt to manage both acclimatization and the final ascent exclusively from base camp. From the perspective of responsible high-altitude medicine that prioritizes health and safety, our strategy is demonstrably superior.

The acclimatization schedule in detail

The expedition itinerary is designed to allow your body to adapt—imperceptibly yet effectively—to the decreasing partial pressure of oxygen:

1. The initial phase in Valle Chico (2,480 m)

After arriving in Copiapó, we spend our first night at a sheltered campsite just above 2,600 meters, beneath the clearest starry sky on Earth.

2. Activation at Laguna Santa Rosa (3,760 m)

Here, we begin with gentle hikes around the Maricunga Salt Lake. To further boost altitude acclimatization, we climb a peak of the Siete Hermanos massif (approx. 4,800 m) the following day. We cover the vertical gain of around 1,000 meters at a deliberately slow, steady pace.

3. The first 6,000-meter peak at Laguna Verde (4,340 m)

After hiking around this enchanting lake, we use the ascent of San Francisco (6,030 m) as a perfect catalyst for acclimatization. We drive to the starting point at 4,700 meters and reach the summit in about 6 to 8 hours. A subsequent rest day ensures we are optimally prepared for our main objective.

4. The high-camp sequence on Ojos del Salado

We relocate our base camp to Camp Atacama at 5,280 meters. The next day, we ascend at a very leisurely pace to the Tejos refuge (5,825 m) to establish a gear cache before descending again. Only then do we move into the refuge for the final night before the summit push, conserving our energy for the strenuous climb through deep volcanic ash.

Adequate and responsible altitude acclimatization is the absolute key to any successful high-altitude expedition. While reaching the summit remains every mountaineer's dream, we never take incalculable risks to achieve it. Our proven strategy involving multiple high camps sets us apart from other providers; we gradually increase our groups' sleeping altitudes to ensure highly efficient acclimatization.

To ensure a safe mountain experience, excellent physical fitness is a prerequisite; meanwhile, we provide comprehensive on-site safety support using professional equipment—including medical oxygen, satellite phones, VHF radios, and emergency medical supplies. Ultimately, the safety of our guests, experienced mountain guides, and the entire team is our top priority, ensuring you enjoy an unforgettable adventure on the world's highest volcano.

Climbing the highest volcano on Earth

The technical climbing demands of Ojos del Salado (6,893 m)

Anyone planning an expedition to Ojos del Salado must carefully consider the extreme altitude of 6,893 meters and the physical challenges posed by the high-altitude Atacama Desert. Yet, alongside the need for endurance, another key topic frequently comes to the fore for our participants: what is the level of technical climbing difficulty involved in ascending the world's highest volcano?
While our experts rate the technical difficulty of the expedition as moderate overall, there is one specific crux—a challenging section just before the summit—for which you need to be prepared.

The crux—the 20-meter final section on the summit structure.

The long ascent across dusty slopes and energy-sapping volcanic ash pushes your body to its absolute limits. Yet, just before the actual summit, the terrain changes:

• Upon reaching the crater rim, the route leads into a gully characterized by prominent blocky terrain.
• Just before the summit, an easy climbing section—approximately 20 meters high—awaits the climbers.
• Although this stretch does not require extreme, acrobatic climbing skills or high-level technical ability, the passage—situated at an altitude of nearly 6,900 meters—should by no means be underestimated due to the extremely thin air.
  
  

The SPONDYLUS safety concept: double protection for summit success.

As a responsible expedition provider, we at Spondylus leave absolutely nothing to chance at this critical section. To guarantee maximum safety, a dual protection system is employed:

• Fixed rope protection: The entire 20-meter section is permanently equipped with a sturdy fixed rope that you can hold onto and use to pull yourself up.
• Additional top-rope protection: To completely eliminate any risk of falling in the steep, rocky terrain, our experienced mountain guides provide additional security for every participant using a dynamic rope from above (top-rope system).

For this reason, carrying and wearing a climbing harness and two carabiners is mandatory for all participants. While advanced climbing skills or formal alpine climbing training are not required to navigate this section, you must be comfortable and proficient in the use of the harness and carabiners, ensuring their handling presents no difficulty in practice.

Why the climbing helmet is indispensable

The rock in the volcano's summit area is exposed to the harsh Andean weather. Consequently, the climbing section described carries a slight risk of rockfall. As the safety of our guests and team is our top priority, wearing a certified climbing helmet is absolutely essential on this part of the expedition. The helmet provides reliable protection against loose rock that could be dislodged by climbers ahead of you or by strong gusts of wind.

Ice, snow, and the use of crampons

The weather on the "Roof of the Andes" can change rapidly, even in high summer. Depending on current snow and ice conditions, it may be necessary to traverse sections covered in snow or ice. While the use of crampons is not mandatory for every expedition—as the slopes are often completely dry—absolute proficiency in their use is a strict requirement for participation on safety grounds. You should have practiced and mastered walking in crampons beforehand to ensure perfect surefootedness at all times, even on slippery or hard terrain.

Safely to the summit with the right preparation

Ojos del Salado is not merely a trekking peak; the summit section demands genuine alpine discipline. While advanced technical climbing skills are not required, the flawless handling of your technical gear—comprising a harness, carabiners, climbing helmet, and crampons—is your personal ticket to a safe ascent.

How do you train for the highest volcano on Earth?

Preparing for the Mountain of Extremes

Ojos del Salado is a mountain of extremes. Standing at an impressive 6,893 meters, it places significant demands on mountaineers. Our experts rate the technical difficulty as moderate, while the physical demands are considered high. Why is this? While there are no extremely difficult sections involving bare ice climbing, there is a stretch of easy, rope-secured scrambling just before the summit. The true challenge lies in the terrain and the physical exertion involved: you are moving through thin air across deep, energy-sapping volcanic ash, making excellent physical conditioning essential for the climb.

The Three Pillars of Your Training Plan

To withstand the extreme conditions of the Atacama Desert, your training should begin at least 4 to 6 months prior to the expedition and rest on three pillars

1. Basic Endurance (Aerobic Foundation)

You need a highly robust cardiovascular system to maintain performance for hours on end despite the lack of oxygen.

• Activities: Running, cycling, swimming, or rowing.
• Focus: Long, slow sessions (Zone 1/GA1). Train for duration rather than speed. A slow, steady run lasting 2–3 hours or a 5-hour road bike ride perfectly simulates the sustained exertion required on Ojos del Salado.
  
  

2. Strength Endurance (Legs & Core)

Walking through deep volcanic sand is like climbing an escalator moving downwards—every step requires leg strength. At the same time, a strong core stabilizes your body when carrying a heavy backpack.

• Exercises: Squats, lunges, deadlifts, and planks.
• Method: High repetition counts (20–25 reps) with moderate weight, or functional training using your own body weight.
   

3. Specific Training (Weighted Hiking)

Nothing prepares you better for an expedition than mountaineering itself.

• Activities: On weekends, seek out the steepest ascents in your local area. Go hiking and deliberately pack extra weight (e.g., water bottles) into your backpack (start with 10 kg and increase to 15–18 kg).
• Goal: Accumulating vertical gain over many hours to condition your muscles, tendons, and joints for the eccentric load of the descent.
  
  

Sample Training Plan: The final 3 months before departure

Use this structured routine to systematically bring your fitness to its peak:

Monday: Rest day – recovery & muscle building.
Tuesday: 60–90 min. base endurance (running/cycling) – cardiovascular system (GA1).
Wednesday: 45 min. functional strength training – core and leg strength.
Thursday: 60 min. Fartlek or interval training – increasing VO2max (oxygen uptake).
Friday: Rest day or light yoga/stretching – flexibility & recovery before the weekend.
Saturday: Specific training: Uphill hiking – 4–6 hours with a 12–15 kg backpack.
Sunday: 120 min. easy cycling or a long walk – active recovery & fat metabolism.

With this training foundation and our professional acclimatization strategy involving multiple high camps, you will be well-prepared to successfully sign the summit logbook of the world's highest volcano.

Equipment for the ascent of Ojos del Salado (6,893 m)

The Ultimate Packing List

Anyone wishing to conquer the world's highest volcano must be prepared for extreme weather conditions. Although our experts rate Ojos del Salado as technically moderately difficult, the physical demands are considered high. Deep, exhausting volcanic ash makes progress in the summit zone incredibly difficult, and a short scrambling section using fixed ropes awaits you at the crater rim. Adequate personal gear is essential to ensure maximum safety and comfort amidst icy winds and temperatures well below freezing.

What SPONDYLUS provides for you on-site

To lighten the load of your expedition luggage during the journey, we provide fully equipped facilities at the campsites:

• Tents & Comfort: We use only high-quality, spacious three-person expedition tents for double occupancy (or two-person tents for single occupancy). Custom-made foam mattresses ensure a high level of sleeping comfort.
• Camp Infrastructure: A fully equipped kitchen and dining tent with tables and chairs is available at the camps.
• Safety: Two-way radios, a satellite phone, oxygen, and emergency medical supplies are always on hand and ready for use.

Your personal packing list: Official equipment recommendation

To ensure a successful summit attempt, please bring the following personal equipment:

Clothing (Layering System)

• Expedition down jacket: Heavy-duty model for extreme sub-zero temperatures on summit day.
• Hardshell/wind jacket: Breathable and completely windproof (e.g., Gore-Tex or Windstopper).
• Fleece layers: A warm fleece jacket/pullover and a mid-weight fleece pullover.
• Thermal underwear: Must be breathable (technical fabrics or merino wool; no cotton).
• Mountaineering trousers: Breathable and windproof (e.g., Gore-Tex), plus lightweight trekking trousers for lower camps.
• Socks: Very warm, thick expedition socks.
  
  

Head & Hands

• Sun protection: Sun hat or peaked cap for intense desert UV radiation.
• Cold protection: Warm headwear with ear protection, plus a balaclava or face mask.
• Glove system: Thin liner gloves, warm windproof trekking gloves, and thick down or synthetic expedition mittens for summit day.
  
  

Footwear & Sleeping System

• Expedition boots: High-altitude, crampon-compatible expedition boots with removable liners (rated for 7,000m peaks).
• Trekking boots & camp shoes: Broken-in hiking boots for acclimatization days, plus lightweight trainers or sandals for base camps.
• Gaiters: Essential for keeping out volcanic ash and snow.
• Sleeping bag: Down or synthetic expedition sleeping bag with a comfort rating of at least -20°C, including a compression sack.
• Sleeping pad: An additional sleeping pad with a high insulation value (R-value) to place under our mattressesand. You need it also for the last high camp.
  
  

Technical & Additional Equipment

• Climbing gear: Crampons, a suitable climbing harness, 2 carabiners, accessory cord, and a climbing helmet.
• Poles: Telescopic trekking poles to relieve joint strain on scree slopes.
• Eyewear: Sunglasses with 100% UV protection and specialized, wrap-around glacier glasses.
• Hydration: Wide-mouth water bottle (to prevent freezing) and a high-quality thermos.
• Electronics & Miscellaneous: Headlamp with ample spare batteries, wristwatch with alarm function, pocket knife.
• Backpacks: A large expedition backpack (70 liters+) for transporting gear to high camps, plus a daypack (30 liters+).
• Hygiene & Comfort: Sunscreen and lip balm (SPF 30+ for both), personal first-aid kit, towel, and swimwear (for the thermal springs at Laguna Verde).
• Transport: A rugged expedition bag (duffel bag) for transport in 4WD vehicles.

Carefully assembling your personal gear—combined with excellent physical fitness—is the absolute prerequisite for a safe and unforgettable mountain experience on Ojos del Salado.

We fully understand that reaching this mighty summit is the ultimate dream for any high-altitude mountaineer. Drawing on our years of experience in the region, we do our utmost to help you achieve this goal. However, please bear in mind that we never take incalculable risks on the mountain; therefore, we cannot offer an absolute guarantee of reaching the summit. The safety of our guests, our professional mountain guides, and the entire expedition team is our top priority at all times.